Looking to upgrade your aging laptop? You can do only so much without a fabrication plant or a tech-savvy witch medico at your accommodation. In most cases, your options are inhibited to three: (1) Wipe the machine immaculate, and reinstall the operating system and your programs; (2)Integrate more RAM; or (3) install an incipient hard drive or a solid-state drive (SSD).
Many laptop users may be surprised to find that option No. 3, utilizing an SSD, is the single most efficacious update they can perform to an older machine. (Even better: Amalgamate that with option No. 1.) An SSD upgrade is especially dramatic if the laptop relies on a platter-mechanism hard drive.
Some upgrades expedite a system only under certain circumstances, or with certain programs. An SSD, though, can make an older machine feel snappy and fresh across the board. If you’re utilizing a platter drive, superseding it with virtually any recent-vintage SSD should show a clear benefit when you’re booting up, launching programs, opening immensely colossal files, loading game levels, and performing many other everyday computing tasks.
That’s because, with an SSD, you’re dealing stringently with flash recollection. Classic hard drives distribute plenty of gigabytes for your dollar, but they are at heart mechanical contrivances. Inside, a spinning disk holds your data, and a series of reading/inscribe heads on a moving arm tracks across the surface to find what you require to fetch and where you optate to inscribe. It’s hard for a mechanism like that, as expeditious as it may be, to compete with the haste of electrons coursing through an SSD recollection chip.
“SSDs: Okay, where can I get one?” might be your first question. The key thing is, you’ll have to do some homework to visually perceive if your laptop can accept an SSD upgrade in the first place. If it’s just a few years old, it probably can. Genuinely old models might not have support for SSDs in their BIOS at all, but a laptop that the elderly isn’t going to be worth upgrading to commence with.
Basic SSD Upgrades
First, flip over your laptop and check for a hatch on the underside secured by a small screw or two.
If the hatch happens to say “HDD” or something similar, so much the better. Some laptops, such as late-model Apple MacBooks and many super-thin ultraportables, are fully sealed and won’t give you access to the innards without the help of a service technician (or some serious courage, combined with specialized tools). But if it’s possible to do the upgrade yourself, here’s what you need to know.
Identifying the Drive
The key thing token from the outset is the categorical kind of drive your laptop has inside. For an upgrade to be worthwhile, you’ll be peregrinating from a platter-predicated hard drive to an SSD, from a hard drive to a higher-capacity hard drive or SSD, or from a cramped SSD to a roomier one.
If the laptop has a hard drive inside that requires to be upgraded, it will be a 2.5-inch “laptop-style” hard drive utilizing a Serial ATA (SATA) interface and running over the SATA bus. (To learn more about all the terms you require token in the world of mobile storage, check out our SSD jargonize.) This type of drive is facile to swap out in favor of a 2.5-inch SATA-predicated SSD, postulating you can get physical access to the drive.
Most of the SSDs on the market sold to consumers are 2.5-inch drives, with the SSD enclosed in a chassis the size and shape of a laptop hard drive. There is withal the possibility that the laptop already has an SSD inside in the 2.5-inch drive form factor, the same size and shape as a hard drive. You can simply swap that out for another (presumably roomier) one.
Another possibility, especially in a thin, tardy-model laptop: It may already have an SSD inside in one of two alternative form factors: mSATA or M.2. These days, manufacturers use only M.2 in incipient laptops; some laptop models from years back may have made utilization of the now-defunct mSATA. Both, though, implement the SSD as a wafer-thin, bare circuit board. (To tell them apart: Most mSATA SSDs measure 31mm wide by 50mm long; M.2 drives are skinnier, at 22mm wide.) They can preserve a plethora of space inside a laptop, but conspicuously, you can’t swap a much more astronomically immense 2.5-inch drive into their place.
Virtually all recent-model SSDs are 7mm thick, but in years past, 9.5mm-thick SSDs were more mundane. Those quantifications were not arbitrary: Older 2.5-inch hard drives denoted for laptops inclined to be 9.5mm thick, and the SSDs’ outer cases were made that thick to fill those bays. Now, hard drive bays in laptops vary in height, so thinner SSDs were obligatory. A 2.5-inch drive bay inside the laptop will be engineered to accept only one of those thicknesses.
If it’s a 9.5mm-high bay, most current SSDs will have scarcely of wiggle room in the bay. That’s not a lamentable thing, but not ideal; you optate the SSD to fit snugly, so that wobble inside the bay doesn’t bend the SATA connector (and you don’t aurally perceive any unnerving rattling). You should ascertain the SSD vendor bundles a spacer to keep the drive seated firmly in the bay. Most do, nowadays, but not all. You could always improvise one out of (non-conductive, please!) scrap materials, but a pre-made one will fit preponderant and feel more professional.
If the 2.5-inch bay is 7mm high, then it will fit most modern SSDs snugly.
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